peggy Archives • Jessica Smith Creates

April 3, 2020April 2, 2020

Agent Carter

We’re in a crazy time right now, and while I’ve regained the time of my commute I’m making the most of it, trying to get my blog up to date, as well as make more stuff! According to my drafts folder, I’ve got 12 posts in the works, and that’s not counting anything I’ve made so far in 2020… Which is a fair bit.

So you’ll likely hear a lot from me in the next month or two, and maybe that’ll kickstart my old blogging energy!

And back to the regularly scheduled- Wait. This dress was made in 2017. That’s three years ago! That’s a whole blog changeover ago. While I go hang my head in shame, enjoy my post about this Peggy dress.

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A loooooooong time ago, I made a dress based off of Peggy Carter’s purple dress in Agent Carter’s episode, “A View in the Dark.”

I remember very little of making it, or the muslin that is shown here in green, but I do remember a few things.

The material that I chose for the green muslin was a relatively medium weight linen/poly blend that had some nice drape, but could hold it’s shape rather well. The purple was instead a very heavy polyester corduroy, and shed like crazy. It’s almost no wonder that the dresses didn’t fit the same.

I modified the dress from the Deer and Doe Belladone, which I had used for a binge of dresses earlier that year, by changing so much that it’s almost not the same garment. This is why I made the not-common for Jess move of making a muslin (I know, I know. Muslins are useful, but sometimes I just want to jump into the real thing and just try it!). And I love the muslin, and one day I will actually line the bodice of the muslin, so that I can wear it again.

The belt was made out of some gorgeous lace that I inherited from one of my mom’s friends. I painstakingly cut flowers from the lace, handstitched them to a silver painted sew in interfacing in black, then attached the interfaced flowers to a fleece backing and stitched on ribbons and hooks and eyes for the closures. It’s still my go to belt for dressing up relatively plain things that need waist definition, like my Future Dress.

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I wore the costume to DragonCon in 2017, but only on Monday, when only super obvious costumes get recognized (because nearly everyone is hungover from excitement and non-stop parties and new friends), and it was too hot for Atlanta on Labor Day. Remember heavy polyester corduroy?

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Later that year, I tried to wear it to a swing dance, and it… Well, I kind of hulked out of it. It was near the end of my Master’s degree, or perhaps right after, and I had gained a bit more… numerically… in the tummy region. I managed to slither into the dress, and then when I got into the car and drove down the block (picture reversing and the automatic twists of the torso to make sure you’re not hitting the neighbor’s car when coming out of the driveway) before the side seam split, and the waist seam gave way. Not my proudest moment. But the material lives on in my ottoman-pouf, and the green dress lives on, and is definitely more my normal style anyway… Polyester corduroy is decidedly not.

April 19, 2016August 19, 2018

TARDIS Blouse

The final new piece of my TARDIS puzzle, the blouse, was a rush job.

I’m talking the day before I left on a trip that I’d be also using for my first photoshoot of the costume, when I realized that the shirt I had planned on using looks crappy with the jacket. And I can’t really change the jacket, since it’s lined and I love it.

It also occurred to me that because I’m not necessarily stuck in a summer con that I can wear long sleeves. So I did, and I think it helps balance out some of the elements.

I used the pattern I made for my Peggy costume, which is quickly becoming my favorite close fitting button up pattern (also known as my only close fitting button up pattern).

The back needed to be redrafted so it was a single piece with no gathering, and I removed some of the curve that is meant to help with swayback, since this would be worn over a corset and was short enough not to really effect it.

The front was redrafted for a shawl collar, which would start its separation above I also decided that long diagonal darts would be neat for a change to the front. I wasn’t feeling the tucks this time, and they would be completely hidden by the outer corset anyway.

The fabric that I showed in this post three years ago that I thought I’d use for a bustle was originally going to be used for this shirt. I got all the way through making it, and was ready to cut the facings when I decided to try it on. And the fabric next to the side seam tore about three inches. Worst feeling ever.

Granted, the fabric was old and holey, and I think it’s silk, so I should have expected some mishaps. I ended up going to dinner with a friend, and once I got back I assessed my options. I looked at the pile of fabrics that I earmarked for this project, and I found this very neat, and very stiff home decor fabric. It would work for the body of the shirt, and I could use the same fabric from the apron for the sleeves. I was able to reuse the broken silk version for the facings, so that is could still be involved.

The body fabric doesn’t press very well, which may have to do with the fact that it essentially feels like lightweight bendable plastic, so the seams and the darts aren’t flat, but most of that is hidden by the outer corset.

There is a slight stain on the gold fabric I used for facing, but that also means I have an excuse to use my Eleventh Doctor’s sonic screwdriver pin. I felt it was fitting.

Now that I’ve worn it once, it’s not quite as fitted as I’d like, so I’m considering taking in the side seams, and maybe adding another dart, a smaller one, to help with some accidental saggy boob look, from being too loose at the bust with a tight corset underneath.

But regardless the shirt does it’s job, and once I bind the inside seams to keep fraying at bay, it’ll serve its purpose for as long as I need it to.

That wraps it up for the new construction. I’ve got some more posts, like updates on older pieces, and I don’t think I ever showed you the TV purse, and also hair and makeup… But I might save that for next week! See you later!

March 3, 2016August 23, 2022

Year 3

WordPress informed me that yesterday was my 3rd blogiversary.

The past two anniversaries, I wrote a post celebrating the year, and especially because this is also my 200th post, I figured I’d give it another whirl.

This year:

I finished my Susan dress! Woohoo!

My self imposed ban of new clothing has kept up really well, and the only piece of clothing I’ve bought was jeans from a thrift store.

I’ve self drafted a few items, including the shirt for my Peggy costume (with more full costume photos to come).

My first pair of jeans were not entirely comfortable (so not wearable), but my second pair is so comfy that I practically live in them.

I’m working on a knit sweater that will actually look like a real sweater, which is definitely a first. And I’m another pair of socks and a half into my sock knitting journey.

Real photos of my Belle from Once Upon A Time (casual style) costume were taken, and though I realized I forgot the necklace, they certainly look snazzy! I do need to figure out how to make the extensions better blended though…

The time I spent embroidering this Merida skirt was ridiculous, but I love this skirt to death. It’s whimsical and subtle and awesome all at the same time!

I’ve also realized that my planning skills are rather lax, and that sometimes I’ll completely change my mind and take on ridiculous projects. Case in point, even though I don’t have real space in my apartment to make a ballgown, I’m planning to make Ella’s ballgown from the live action Cinderella.

First though, I’ve got to make and finish my TARDIS skirts. After three years it’s really time.

Here’s to year 4! Thanks for reading!

July 30, 2015August 19, 2018

Peggy Trousers

Peggy Carter is my hero.

Granted, my favorite Avenger is Iron Man, and I only watched the first Captain America a few times, but I knew during the first watch that Peggy was awesome.

And then they gave her a show. Cause she’s brilliant.

My costume situation is currently… complicated. My Claudia was basically finished, but I wanted to switch out the zipper on the vest for a separable one, and that’s when I saw the massive pit stains. Why must white be so terrible? Belle is essentially finished sewing and stuff-wise, but I’m deciding/working on the hair. I’m keeping my hair shorter, and its just to short to be both curly and Belle-like, so I’m working on a hairpiece to assist. Susan is being painted, and the TARDIS needs a skirt, so I’m currently fully booked on costuming.

But I couldn’t resist starting another costume.

I have a problem.

I’m rationalizing it in this case by saying that these are work appropriate, surprisingly comfy, and very fun to swish around in.

Cake Patterns has always been a favorite of mine, even if I haven’t made much from them. I love the designs, even if I don’t want to wear all of them. So when they put out a woven pants pattern, I knew that I had to have it. Plus, they’re wide legged, and I wanted to try that style.

I had just cut into some fabric for a Ginger Jeans muslin (the fabric of which was a bad choice because it had no stretch. Trust me, you want some stretch for that.), and after getting some whiskering, I wanted to take a break before cutting into my really expensive denim.

There’s been this brown twill sitting on my shelf for at least half a year. I’m not even sure where I got it, but it was perfect for the Endeavor Trousers. Just a little stretch, and its quite a lovely bottomweight. I realized that it was the perfect color for a Peggy costume, and these wide legged trousers fit into that theme too. So on the 4th of July, I started this Endeavor. Hee hee. Puns.

I made up the pattern with the side zipper, and pretty much followed the pattern exactly. It’s very high waisted, which is a lot on my small frame, but that made it a little easier to fit, since the way the waist laid made the crotch drop just a smidge, and that solved the fitting problems there. I did take off around 3 inches from the side seams, and the pockets are much too deep for me, so I’m going to need to shorten them on future pairs. The side seams might have been because of the stretch, though. And I had to use a normal zipper, so eventually I’ll need to find a heavy duty invisible zipper. It bubbles a bit, which creates these weird bumps, as you can see on the right side below.

I was also getting some creasing at the back yoke, so I ended up making a horizontal dart. My swayback game seems quite strong.

The waistband and pocket lining are the same quilting cotton as my project satchel, and I love it!

The hem requires some sort of heel, though, since I knew I’d want to wear heels for a costume. It doesn’t limit them, but it does limit my comfy footwear. Gave me a chance to wear my original Belle heels! The hem is only held up by Steam a seam, though, and it might not be holding up well, so I could shorten it if I want.

I also did a makeup test, and it was my first time contouring. Not sure it worked/was worth the effort, but I think it’s a snazzy face. The red lips are definitely fun, at least. I’m working on pin curls, but I will probably want to do one of her ponytail styles anyway. This was not a good hair day, and without pin curls, but it is generally what I’ll probably be doing. The makeup might also work for Belle, though I need to decide if a more costumey contouring could give me more rounded cheeks… Choices…

The week that I decided to do this costume, I found a lovely red fedora on Ebay, and I couldn’t let it go, so with a blouse and a satchel, I could complete this costume. Sure, the red hat would be a little out of place for that outfit, but it would be a valid way to identify as Peggy! Once I get a bit further into the costume, I’ll show you the hat… AKA I forgot to take a picture…

Blouse draping is hard, though, so it might be awhile before the next update on this costume. But is that news for anyone?